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Traveling with Al: Excerpts from the journals Al wrote in as he traveled around the world.** [Copyrighted material: All right reserved] First Whale
Thursday – 28 February 1985 San Ignacio Lagoon, Baja California
It happened yesterday…For the first time I touched a living – free swimming whale – and my life will probably never be the same again.
We were all up at dawn coming into the opening of San Ignacio Lagoon. There were whale spouts everywhere. As we approached the sand bar we saw spy hopping and breaching. I saw more whales before breakfast than I have seen on all my whale trips put together. As we came to Rocky Point and dropped anchor, the excitement and sense of anticipation was intense.
I went ashore first with half of the group. We examined sea shells, barnacles, dolphin skeletons, turtle shells, pickleweed, ocotillo in bloom, Opuntia and recent fossil shells by the score. It was fun in the sun – but we kept hearing the sound. Whales breathing. Whales breathing so close that we could hear the giant exhalation and the air going INTO the lungs.
At 10:00 we switched and it was our turn to go “whale watching” Intellectually, I suppose I was prepared for what I was about to experience – but it was still amazing. We cruised about for a few minutes hoping for our encounter with a “friendly whale”. She came right to the skiff. She came from deep water with her whale child of a few weeks and she came in peace. She came to the skiff and exhaled as she broke the surface a scant 5¢ from the skiff. The 10¢ spout flew across our anticipant and stunned faces and she fulfilled our dreams. I cannot put into words how or what I felt – there was no shouting or screaming – just a quiet rejoicing – and awe – at the control – the mighty and wonderful control. She would come to the skiff and dip down just enough to not touch the skiff – but be touched. Leaning down over the edge I could see her mighty fluke, her flippers – her head – her eyes – inches from the skiff – but not a bump. She came to both sides of the skiff with her head where anxious hands patted, stroked and scratched her. Some were moved to kiss her. Her + 18¢ child also came to visit and be touched. Several times she moved beneath the calf and lifted it to the edge of the boat. Both opened their mouth to allow us to see “living” baleen. I was within a foot of two whale nostrils as they opened and closed. I’ve got to say it again. She came by right side up, upside down. I saw her mighty 45¢ body rolling, gliding, sinking backward – doing all these things – and not once touching the boat. Incredible, I still can hardly believe it. She was beautiful.
After a short ocean & sky watching stint on the bridge, I went to sleep dreaming of those friendly whales and those eyes – so close I swear I will never forget that feeling – ever.
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